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Offline The Black Dahlia Murder

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Painting an Avatar
« on: October 9, 2010, 02:26:22 PM »
Can anyone give me a link to a site that has a step by step guide how to paint my Eldar Avatar? Or tell me how to. Either one works.

Offline Raven

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #1 on: October 9, 2010, 02:36:15 PM »
What most people do, is prime it white, and then do all the cracks in oranges, reds and yellows. Then go over the raised "crust" with browns and blacks. To give it a molten feel.

In the end, just go with what you think looks nice. When I did mine, I styalised it with lots of orange to show "heat".

Offline Critically_Hit

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2010, 02:06:33 AM »
To contrast ( ;) ) I primed my Avatar black and used a lot of red tones. Most of the effects I got where by drybrushing up from scab red/red gore to blood red, and then I started adding some bleached bone in the mix.

Final highlights were done with allmost pure bleached bone I think. (it's been a while). Either way, here's picture:


I'll be honest with you, since then I've learned a great deal more about painting and I would likely do it differently alltogether. Perhaps go have a look at Skeeve's Avatar - since it blew my mind.

Hope that helps, good luck!
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Offline longshanks

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2010, 02:25:20 PM »
Theres a photo below of mine:

http://s947.photobucket.com/albums/ad314/longshanks_2010/?action-view&current=DSC00318.jpg

I started with a white undercoat.
Used a SBurst yellow wash in the recesses while leaving the core/stomach with patches of white.
Used Firey Orange on the edges workin in towards the centre going through Red Gore, Scab Red onto Chaos Black...

I tried to get  it loking like molten lava...


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Offline Raktra (So long, I guess)

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2010, 05:40:29 PM »
Here's mine:



And I based it off this:

http://www.40konline.com/index.php?topic=181487.0;topicseen

Basic trick is to keep going with the highlights and colour brightening steps, and wash it red a good few times.

Offline Big Bad Wolf

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2010, 07:46:27 PM »
And I went an entirely different approach... painting the creases in lava theme then doing all the plates to look like wraithbone... old picture with a crappy camera but you should get the idea



As far as a tutorial... you might look for one on Hakkanor's Reavers (Chaos Space Marines)
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Offline Galef

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2010, 12:10:20 AM »
I struggles with this myself.  My solution was to prime white, wash yellow (not really wash per se, more of a watered-don 50-50), then drybrush up to bronze.  After the yellow was dry, I drybrushed the following colors, starting heavy and becoming more light: Yellow-orange mix, orange, orange-gold mix, and finally gold.  I then used Tin-bitz to highlight the edges.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_b1VmD9xlLxI/TEdYZLyNj4I/AAAAAAAAAio/TRYX9f6hQmM/s1600/Avatar.JPG

BTW, my Avatar is a converted Deciever with a Bloodletter Hellblade and various Eldar bitz.
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Offline Skeeve

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Re: Painting an Avatar
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2010, 04:23:05 AM »
http://coolminiornot.com/232945

On this model, as a mentioned, it is rather challenging mostly because you have to do things upside-down (or rather inside-out). The deepest parts are the brightest, not what you normally do when you highlight. The color progression was as following (from deepest part to the surface)

1) Privateer press, P3 Heartfire - applied until saturation. You do not want ANY white in the recesses. Yes, technically it should be there (the hotter the whiter) but it simply doesn't look good - it looks like an unpainted surface that you just missed. White has its uses here but not in the deepest parts

2)First "shade": Vallejo Model Light yellow

3) Skull white. It this point you pick you favorite plated edges and highlight them all the way to white. Now, it has to be the sharpest edges with no transition. If you white at this point start to blend with yellow on a surface you will loose sharp transition and simply desaturate yellow. Instead of very bright shining from inside edge you end up with very light yellow surface - avoid it. Also, don't do it on each and every sharp edge you see. This is very hot very complex metallic shape we are talking about - some randomness is good. Some edges are hot and bright white some others are less bright and therefore yellow/orange, some others are cold and  red. Avoid uniformity

4) Orange. Pick any orange you like. I used either GW blazing orange, or Simple mix between  P3 Heartfire and Vallejo Model FLat Red. Again the simplicity of the approach is that you don't really need to control the precision of your orange since different parts could have different temperature. Avoid desaturated orange.

5) Vallejo Model Flat Red. This color was used as a transition between really dark parts and really bright. I used it as a wash over orange applied in the direction away from edges

6) Cold parts. Again, same as above - things cool differently; some are completely cold others are actually quite hot. 4 colors (not at the same time) were used for colder parts

"Hot" cold parts - Vallejo Model Violet Red washed over with diluted Vallejo Game Hexed Lichen. The more washes the darker the center will become

Cold-cold part - Vallejo Model Violet+GW Chaos black (1:1) washed over Vallejo Game Hexed Lichen, sometimes washed over Vallejo Model Violet Red

Really cold part - Chaos Black washed over Vallejo Game Hexed Lichen sometimes washed over Vallejo Model Violet red or even Flat Red to ensure smooth transitions

 


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