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Offline jsingh

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General Painting
« on: October 19, 2008, 11:53:38 AM »
Different types of paint manufactures. (GW is good but too expensieve and the pots they come in are not good) They should have screw lid, and a small ball in it. (easier to mix, just by shaking.)
Any other descent makes?

What types of brushes are the best from miniature painting.
When sizes

Various Modelling bases makes (sand/mud/grass/snow etc..)
Any other modelling items that is really essential
Got the following
liquid cement (GW's glue is rubbish for mini's, get it all over the model)
modelling clippers
low grade sand paper
I have GW brushes but there to thick, for detailed work
milli putty
Some GW paints/inks

Basically want a bomb proof set-up when doing my mini's, before i didnt have everything so the outcome wasnt as well as i could get it.
Whats the best way to store paints?

Offline MoonMan

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2008, 01:05:52 PM »
For brushes, I have three rules.

Buy Kolinsky Sable,
Buy Kolinsky Sable, and
Buy Kolinsky Sable.

Kolinsky Sable is the superior type of bristle; it holds a point almost unnaturally easily and, if properly taken care of, will not fishtail or split. I buy Master's Touch "Mini Multimedia" brand brushes from Hobby Lobby. If you find this brand, check the back of the packaging and it should say 'Mini Kolinsablon'. These are the right kind. They come in all sizes and shapes, from round brushes, to liners, to spotters (you'll see the difference when you look at them). A 20/0 liner is the smallest kind, and is more than small enough for detail work. General work can be had with a 12/0 or so. Best of all? They're $3.99 USD each.

If you're going to invest in these brushes, I have a second rule:
Buy brush cleaner.

Brush cleaner is cheap, and easy and quick to work into your routine. It'll extend the life of your brushes infinitely. Basically it's like a shampoo that cleans out the paint from the ferrule (the little metal bit the bristles stick out of). I use "The Master's" Brush Cleaner and Preserver. It comes in a little tan plastic tin, and it can also be found at Hobby Lobby or other art stores. After you've finished painting for the day (or during painting, if you got paint in the ferrule), you just wet the brush and swirl it in the tin. Rinse and wipe the brush, and voila! Often it'll get paint out of the ferrule that you hadn't even been painting with that day.

Hope these tips help!
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Offline Aislinn

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2008, 08:14:37 PM »
for brushes I go to a local hardware store and look for a large package aof various sized brushes, that are the size I'm looking for.  Usu. costs me around $3-5?    I always get sable hair for gen. painting, and detail painting. 
    I do the same thing for dry brushes, except I look for a package of Nylon brushes.  I usu. try to get the yellow nylon variety, because it's easier to see the paint colours, and tell when the coating is wearing out. 
   for paints, I usu. stick with standard GW paints... unless I need specific colours or metallic paints.  For these paints I get Testors acryllic paints_I'm really pleased with their Semi-gloss black, it takes a few coats, but it looks amazing! 
   for sealant, I usu. get Modelmaster/testor semi-gloss.  It looks nice and shows the highlights of the model well, without looking glassy or too shiny, it give the model that natural sheen that all objects have, and it adds extra definition to any places you couldn't highlight because of awkward positiong or other parts of the model were in the way.
   Hope this helps ;D
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Offline Fafnir

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2008, 04:17:13 AM »
Despite being a bit more expensive, I find that GW paints work really well, and are well worth their cost. That and Testors are my two favourites. I use Vajello for washes though, since their stuff is all crappy and watered down anyway(their black glaze is excellent for this). I wouldn't ever recommend Vajello for anything other then washes, unless you really like your colours to be very thin and faded(see the fur on my GM's cape). And I wouldn't ever use GW paints for washes, since not only are they more expensive, but you can put them to much better use then that. Testors is good for pretty much anything. It's very close to GW paints in its consistancy and I like that a lot.

I also use Tamiya purple for the eyes of my GKs, and it's like a mix of GW and Vajello in some ways. On one hand, it's actually a very deep colour, and goes on pretty thick. But on the other, it's very watery. It's a very odd combination, but I'm not complaining.

As for tools, I use some brushes, obviously, but I'm also a fan of needles, toothpicks, and even tried out paintmarkers(they make great small brushes once they're dried out, since the tip is so small to begin with).

Offline nesbitt_bub1

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2008, 08:05:04 AM »
personally i like to store my paints upside down. The heavy pigments will fall into the lid so you get more control over the strength of your paint.

If you live int he U.K and want cheap brushes go down to your local WHsmiths. they have a winsor and newton value pack for water paints from sable. (not kolinsky sable just sable). they work out at 1 per brush and are very very good in comparison to the GW brushes. the pack comes with a a 2, 0, and 00 sizes.. all are very usable. I'd go buy a decent 0000 brush as well so you have a super fine detail brish as well.

My glue is always revell contacta professional... It's cheaper than GW's and stronger in terms of plasic melting capacity. It also has a needle applicator... You just have to be a little more sparing with it as it will burn the models if you get it everywhere. And my superglue comes from a builders merchant. Wikes do a good mitre fix pack for about 8, with a huge superglue bottle and the spray to make supergule set instantly... Makes metal models a lot faster, but you do have to wash them once there buiilt.

Offline TK422

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2008, 08:31:35 PM »
I prefer Vajello to the citadel paints. You have to get the "game color" line though. They match up very well to the citadel colors, though they dry a bit brighter and richer then the citadel line. I find them to be just a bit too thick and have to add a bit of water. Which works out as they last longer. When dry, the paint doesn't chip after like citadel does which is a plus for table top.

I did have one bad experience with them. I had just bought a number of them, and one came out as more of a wash then paint. I was able to exchange it and it ended up just being a bad bottle.

Offline Dux Aurelius Elysius

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2008, 09:41:37 PM »
I use for paints primarily vallejo (though vajello sounds more fun), model colour as you get a wider variety of colour you have access too.  Still, you can mix with game colour and they mix fine with GW paints both being acrylic.  Only real difference is that you need to shake it more and, I find, you get greater control when painting.

As for brushes, I do have Windsor Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable, but most of the time I use GW standard and detail brushes.  They hold a good enough point and can carry a good amount of pigment.  With Series 7 I find the bristles aren't long enough and so don't hold much pigment, which is dandy only for doing very, very fine detail work but most of the time they're unnecessary, and the inability to hold as much pigment frustrates me with the rate I return to palette.  It's also very expensive if you accidentally ruin one.

I use airfix liquid poly which you can get in a bottle with a needle point which allows much, much better control of fluid that the GW glue.  I also tend to use loctite glues (often the gel consistency) again because I find it easier to control.

I despise milliput having once used it and being vastly disappointed.  Greenstuff (kneadatite) is excellent for most modelling needs, a little tub of vaseline or a pot of water to stop things from sticking.  If you use it for more than just gap filling, the GW sculpting tool (or something similar), a varied set of clay shapers and a clothes pin are all pretty essential to get good effect.

I would've said that the four brushes I use are:
GW basecoat brush.
GW fine detail brush.
Series 7 size 2 for freehanding chapter symbols.
Series 7 size 0 for eyes and such.

I really should invest in some good brush cleaner, as should you.  With proper care taken of GW brushes they'll keep their point fine, so if you're having trouble with them you might find getting Kolinsky Sable will just be money down the drain.  My GW brushes only really lose shape after a long period of use or if I forget to store them properly.
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Offline Happy-Cake!

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2008, 02:29:08 PM »
Along the discussion of brushes, what do you guys think of the 5/0 Detailer micron by dynasty?

Offline Skeeve

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Re: General Painting
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2008, 04:26:24 PM »
Different types of paint manufactures.
I am using almost equal mix of Vallejo Model,  Vallejo Game and Reaper Master. In my not so humble opinion :) Reaper master has the best flesh tones on the market and since they are already grouped in triads you don't even need to think which one to use for shading/highlighting. From GW range I use Black, white, some foundations, some washes and some metallic.

What types of brushes are the best from miniature painting.
When sizes
Personally I am using Winsor&Newton series 7 "0" and "1" most of the time, Rafael 8470 0/4 for extra detail work. Some no-name tank brushes for tanks. I am getting most of my brushes online

Various Modelling bases makes (sand/mud/grass/snow etc..)
Any other modelling items that is really essential
Modeling putties - "green stuff" (off late I rarely use it) and Apoxie sculpt (http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html)

Cork sheets - available from any good art store - the thinner the better. I am using them to make "stone" slabs

Various flocks. Manufacturer is unimportant - most of them are comparable. I am getting most of mine from woodland scenic (http://www.woodlandscenics.com/) Many hobby stores specializing in rail-road modeling carry their stuff

Silflor grass. This is my favorite artificial grass. 2mm version is the best for minies, 4mm for tanks. It looks rather expensive, but I bought mine about 3 years ago and I don't expect it to run out for several more years. Do iasearch to see who sells it. I get it locally from one of the train hobby place.

Various size "ballasts" (sand smal pebbles, big pebbles), again getting mine from my local train shop. lasts forever.



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