Topic: Testors paint question

[SkullyChaos]

Ok, so I am a bad GW monkey, as I am using different paints... I had them and I am broke. (My wife sadly is the final say on my hobby expenditures)
I was wondering if anyone had any luck trying to use them for a wash? ( I am trying to expand my skills some, as that pile of pewter and grey plastic is making me sad after seeing some of the awesome jobs y'all have done, plus if you take a look at the pictures I posted in earlier threads they look like the paint is a bit thick.)
I added some water at about 1:1 to them, but they still came out looking thick as heck, and drying way fast. I added more water, but it still looks and paints funky to me. (lumpy and thick)
Any ideas?
Should I skip buying the next model(s) on my list and reinvest in paint?
Or do my skills at washes and such just need that big of an improvement?

Any help is much appreciated.

[BrassScorpion]

Testors makes acrylic water based paint and solvent based paint. First thing to check, if you're using solvent based paint, you need to thin it with paint thinner, water will not be effective. Second, assuming you are using water based acrylics, remember that Testors paint is designed to give good clean coats and coverage on model cars, planes, etc. not small miniatures with fine detail, so it may simply be unsuitable for the task of painting Warhammer model soldiers. There are other paint ranges that are as good as Citadel for miniatures, like Privateer Press and Vallejo, but they all cost about the same.

[SkullyChaos]

That makes sense now, as it is the solvent paint. Guess I should have noticed that before now...
Sigh...
So if I thin it with the paint thinner, an I expect to get a smoother finish to my models, and be able to "wash" them using this kind of paint?
Or should I just pony up for some better suited paints?

[Fafnir]

Well, since you have to use paint thinner to use testors for washes, I would imagine that testors would be more expensive to wash with in the long run.

[Impervious]

Back when I originally started Warhammer, I attempted to use Testors paints, but to no avail.  They stink in comparison to the GW ones.

I have heard good things about Vallejo (sp?) paints though.  You may want to check them out too.

[SkullyChaos]

Well, since you have to use paint thinner to use testors for washes, I would imagine that testors would be more expensive to wash with in the long run.

Well yeah, if I didn't already own the paints. It looks like all I will need to play with them is some paint thiner.

If I could figure out how to link back to another post, I would repost the pics of my Chaos terminator sorc. lord. He looks Mona Lisa good. Good from far, but far from good.
I tried to do some of the finer details using this paint, but it is a little rough when viewed closely. And after seeing the pictures, I feel worse about my painting.
Someone had suggested washing it, and thats what brought this about. (Plus I have a new Terminator lord itching to be painted) I wanted to try for something nicer for a HQ this time around.

I may just try it with the thinner, and take some WIP pics to let y'all see how he turns out. I can't get better without practice right?

[Fafnir]

Back when I originally started Warhammer, I attempted to use Testors paints, but to no avail.  They stink in comparison to the GW ones.

I have heard good things about Vallejo (sp?) paints though.  You may want to check them out too.

LIES! Testor's Red Enamel is the RED OF THE GODS! OF THE GODS I TELL YOU!

[Aislinn]

I have much luck using all paints as washes... which colour wash are you trying to eminate/recreate?

[SkullyChaos]

For the terminator lord i am thinking i want to do his armor black. but i dont want it to be just this lump of black.
im thinking i will try to base it a dark brown, and then wash it with black and see how that works.
although i may play with that squad of catchans first before i do this to my lighting claw termie lord...

[Aislinn]

If you want him to be an off black/brown colour... I'd suggest this tip. 
  First, you'll need some oil-based glaze (like you would use for faux finishing).  Then, mix that into your 3:1 mix of Black and Brown, then apply it with a Nylon brushover the areas that are to be painted black.  Next, let the model dry, then apply highlights and washes.  Also, make sure you clean the Nylon brush with Acetone.  water won't work because it's oil-based.

[SkullyChaos]

I'm guessing that the glaze can be picked up at my local Home Depot/Lowe's?
Any particular brand you would reccomend?

[Aislinn]

I used the ACE brand Royal Touch for Interior... and you can probably pick up a similar type at any local hardware store.  It's an Alkyd glazing liquid.

[SkullyChaos]

Just a FYI, I tried the paint thinner with the Testors paint, attempting to make a wash... sadly it ended up stripping off my base coat too. And some primer. Looks like new paint is going to be the  answer to this little issue.

[BrassScorpion]

It's not called solvent based for nothing. You can paint acrylics over solvent based, I do it all the time when I use spray paints for base coating, but you generally cannot put solvent based on top of acrylics.

[Lt_PliskinAJ]

I have been using testors for a long time and the you can dilute the paints with thinner but they will act more like an ink. They will pool to the crevices. If you want fading what I do is have your base coat let it get sticky not completely dry (it will work dried but its easier if not completely) then clean your brush and put just a little bit of the other paint, just a drop or two then dip the brush in to the thinner. This will let your paints mix on the model and allow a nice fade.



You can also do this by really laying the dry brushing. The key is to minimize the use of thinner to just enough to mix the paints.

[SkullyChaos]

Those capes are wicked!!

I might just need more practice, not only with this method, but paining in general.
I am letting all the nids (got a late xmas gift from a friend) finish drying (glue) and I will try to play some with them tomorrow.
I am really excited to paint some with these, as I have been kicking around the idea for a nid army, and found an awesome picture of a turtle for inspiration for their paint scheme. (See link below) Ill let you know how it goes, and hopefully I can report something good.

http://www.empireoftheturtle.com/Florida/Pseudemys_floridana_peninsularis_Yalaha_carapace.jpg

[devout]

I use testors for washes. The really great thing is that you can put it on fairly sloppily, let it dry, then using a brush or cotton swab dipped in paint thinner you can sort of "push" it into the areas you want while scrubbing it off the areas you dont want it on. I recommend 10 parts thinner to 1 part paint... you want it to be REALLY thin. I buy a big tub of the airbrush thinner to save money (it's all the same stuff as long as it says enamel and not lacquer). As you've noticed though this only works over acrylic or lacquer paints. Personally I do a lacquer base coat, then testors wash, then acrylic (gw) highlights. Lacquer paint pretty much has to be airbrushed though... it dries too fast to brush on. If you're interested the only brand I know of is Mr. Color, which is great but you need to import it from asia (but it's so cheap even with shipping it's less than GW stuff).

[SkullyChaos]

Ill check it out, thanks.

On a nice side note, my wifey has heard me complaining about not being able to paint well with my testors paint (not being able to experiment with washes etc. Those Nids came out clumpy and special olympic ready, so they are taking a bath in pinesol), and went out to a local Hobby Lobby while I was away this weekend for work, and got my some Liquitex acrylic mini paints to play with. As I just got home and finished working a few minutes ago, I will be playing with these in the next few days, and hope I can get some decent results. Ill let you know.