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Modeling => Conversions, Modelling and Terrain => Topic started by: Lds on September 9, 2008, 04:42:42 PM
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I'm looking at modelling extra armour on my rhinos for a new mech list I'm doing and fancied modelling some bar armour on them. Has anyone done this or know of a good way to do it? I've put an example below so you can see what I mean;
(https://www.40konline.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi410.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fpp188%2Flds4567%2FRG-33_wheeled_armoured_vehicle_LROD.jpg&hash=69c2bada10dec22e0f6fcf1a750af86f9b583a4e)
Cheers.
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How does that "Bar Armor" protect against modern weapons? It looks to me like it is made to keep animals away from Safari vehicles.
I also note there is no protection for the wheels or undercarriage.
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Interesting. I don't know what kind of shooting weapon such bars would help protect against. I suppose that it would add protection against various close combat weapons, though.
It really looks like the kind of thing Orks would add to their small Trukks in order for more boys to hang on to in order to be transported to the front.
NewHeretic
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How does that "Bar Armor" protect against modern weapons? It looks to me like it is made to keep animals away from Safari vehicles.
I also note there is no protection for the wheels or undercarriage.
Doesn't it cause missiles to explode on the bar and not the chassis itself?
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Correct, its designed to stop shaped charges from RPGs and light AT missiles. The cage prematurely detonates the charge outside the effective range of the molten jet. It is useless against kinetic penatrators (like tank shells), and two stage latest generation AT missiles liek the Javelin.
Model-wise, I was planing on adding some to my chimera, not sure what materials I going to use though, possibly wire on sprues cut into support rods.
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Please note that this thread was not to debate what the armour is for... I was after ideas for how to model it. Please don't try to guess at what it does, it will only get the thread shut for going off topic. Ta.
I had thought about using wire like you mention but I can't help thinking they'll end up getting bent out of shape.
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I would use plastic card rod (1 or 1.5mm diametre) for the horizontal bars with plasticard I-beams for the vertical supports.
Inquisitor Psychologis Ruminahui
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Perhaps toothpicks would work? Then use plasticard I beams to connect them like what Dr_Ruminahui said.
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Now that you mention it, cocktail skewers would work great, since they are thin and quite long (when compared to the model.
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Yeah but modelling it with plasticard and rods to indivually position each bar would be really hard and take ages to do. It'd be a nightmare to do on a fleet of vehicles..
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I would say the cocktail skewers too, and for the vertical bars I think the bars of the sprues would be great (drill them up on the sides to get the skewers into it and file them a bit).
The bars would be a bit larger than on your pic but I think it would look more like "heavy war tank with extra armor" than "old truck made for safari tours" ^^
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Personally I'd go with extra large metal paperclips and bend them into shape.
@Lds, it's what I used to support my manticore missile and smoke, and I also use them to hold up my carrion 4" into the air (as a flying stand). Unless you forcefully try and bend them, they'll how up VERY well. Still, it's a lot of work for the amount you'll need... It isn't easy cutting the stuff with clippers, let alone bend it.
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Thanks for all the comments! Some really good ideas there. I think I'm gonna go away and have a play with some of them now.
Cheers all!
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You could always make a basic frame using thin metal rods, then use mesh wiring for the grenade nets.
Or heck, you could use bits of sprue carved into smooth bars and put the mash across it like that.
~Andromidius
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Yeah but modelling it with plasticard and rods to indivually position each bar would be really hard and take ages to do. It'd be a nightmare to do on a fleet of vehicles..
It wouldn't take too long if you drill holes through the I-beams to pass the rods through rather than cutting them. Still, getting the holes aligned might be a problem.
Though, realistically, there is no way that I can see to get the effect that he wants that isn't labour intensive.
Inquisitor Psychologis Ruminahui
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Use plastic strips for the frame and rod for the bars.
Both Evergreen and Plastistruct make dozens of sizes of strips, often scale versions of common dimensional lumber (2" x 4", 1" x 6", etc)
mark the hole locations on one strip, stack that on top of several other strips and clamp if possible then drill the holes. Use one of these as a guide for drilling more strips. This will help ensure the holes are evenly spaced on each strip. Use liquid styrene glue, not superglue or the nasty gel plastic cement, it will have far less melting or mess. Cut the rods slightly then stack them so you can cut ends evenly and square. An adjustable carpenters square would work well, laying a ruler over the top should make a good cutting guide.
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(https://www.40konline.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ipmsstockholm.org%2Fmagazine%2F2003%2F01%2Fimages%2Fturkalj_js2mchkz_01.jpg&hash=695c263458a39260360d378b7e16e75598e7789b)
You could try the russian ww2 style.
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Slightly OT, but the slat armor works by damaging the fuse of RPG warheads, if that doesnt work they may deform the actual liner leading to suboptimal jet formation.
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Forgeworld has somewhat beat you to the chase.
(https://www.40konline.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forgeworld.co.uk%2Facatalog%2Fspacedarmour.jpg&hash=08529dfdd92122f0f14f5e79bbb7eba67e45926c)
It's called spaced armor. It gives a rocket or grenade round a hard surface to impact against away from the main fuselage.
The reason the MRAP in that picture has "cage" spaced armor is because its main armor can withstand AK-47 rounds, so its cheaper to let them pass through, and it offers the drivers better visibility.
Edit- Also their is no protection for the undercarriage because MRAP stands for Mine Resistant Armor Protected. AKA it can run over mines/IEDs without crippling itself, so any extra armor is redundant
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Actually the running gear of MRAPs isn't armoured, it can still be crippled. However, the chassis is 'V' shaped, to deflect the blast of the mine away from the cabin, meaning that the soldiers inside are more likely to survive. This fits in with western armoured vehicle design: the vehicle can be smashed to bits, its the crew that MUST survive, ie; the crew are more valuable than the vehicle they are in.
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Another reason this armour is used is that it is much lighter than tranditional spaced armour, so you can use it on fast reconnaissance vehicles and vehicles which are to be airdropped. Back on topic...
As for how to replicate it, can I suggest taking a paperclip and doing the following:
-The paperclip consists of 3 "U" shaped bends of wire. Cut it up so that you get 2 "U"s with even length ends- one larger than the other.
-Collect a number of the large ones and interleave them with the curved part facing opposite direction. This will give you a range of parallel metal bars with curved edges at the edge of the armour.
-Make verticals with thin strips of plasticard at either end of the plate.
-Use the smaller "U"s for smaller plates.
The nice thing about this is that it does not involve bending the wire. I will try and do a sketch to show you what I mean.
EDIT: grrr this does not work due to the black background, but if you click on this it will take you to the picture that does work. Can a mod fix this?
EDIT2: saving to BMP then resaving to JPEG fixed it, although I am not sure that that should be needed.
(https://www.40konline.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.arstechnica.com%2Fx%2Fsmallfurryspider%2Fpaperclip_armour2.JPG&hash=52eecfb8f5f19413743d68406c8e7de6783da279) (http://members.arstechnica.com/x/smallfurryspider/paperclip_armour2.jpg)
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That's really clever, Spider.
May not work due to scale issues (the clip may not be long enough to do the space he wants covered), but still very clever.
Inquisitor Psychologis Ruminahui
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Actually DR. It would work really well you just have to use more paper clips for the particular area. Also depends on what version of Rhino he uses. I personally only use MK I Rhinos so it would work perfect for me . I plan on trying this when i get back home to give my Rhinos a fresh look. Perhaps even rig it to where it is removable
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That's really clever, Spider.
May not work due to scale issues (the clip may not be long enough to do the space he wants covered), but still very clever.
Thanks for the ego massage :D
I have not tried it myself, so if anyone does give it a go, please post a picture so I can see how well it works.