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Ork Boot Kamp (articles, army lists and batrep links)
angel of death 007:
Step 5: Black Clothing
The next step I took was trying to make the black shirts look more black. I know this seems silly in words but here a little goes a long way. If you are doing different colors here might be a good time to work on them or possibly before anything as they are so inward that painting them afterwards might make it hard to not accidently get paint on an area you don't want.
Drybrushing: Codex Grey
Again this I used over any cloth that I wanted to leave black. The idea is to take very little paint and then keep brushing it against a paper towel til this is very little paint in it and it only makes very light marks. You then take the brush and using a bit of force you work over all the black areas of cloth. This will it and leave marks on the raised areas. Making a bit of an contrast or shadow. It seems a little too much at first but don't worry we will fix it later I promise ;)
Approximate time was 20 minutes This is really fast if done properly the main thing to remember is that you should have next to no paint marks on the model. Very light.
This ork has an almost black uniform look at how little codex grey is on it
back side of same model
check out the pants and very very little on the shirt of this model
Step 6: Skin Wash
Now we get to the next step which is really great at adding some easy shading to your models. When washing I have found it best to use a natural hair brush that can hold a lot of wash. I don't water down my washes or paints and use them straight from the container.
Wash: Thraka Green
When using washing be careful to only target the area you are working with. They make different effects with different colors and if you get green on kommando khaki or even on the bolt gun metal it will make a less than desireable effect. Load up your brush and focus on all the green skin areas. A good heavy coat of wash is great to achieve the maximum effect. Let it pool in the recesses of the muscles or any other recesses in the model. This leaves a great effect later on. It takes a bit of practice to get right but it is pretty easy to experiment with.
Approximate time 25 minutes
This is really fast. All you are doing is loading up your brush and hitting all the skin, shouldn't take more than a few minutes per model.
face and arms after wash
You can really see the wash effect as it starts to dry
Step 7: Rusted / worn metal effect
Our next wash is really easy though I have a tendency to try and make it pool up in certain areas to give more a worn / rusted metal effect.
Wash: Devlan Mud
For this step you want to target all your metal areas. Sound wierd? maybe a bit but it has a lot better effect then using a watered down black or even black ink. It dulls down the metallic flake in the bolt gun metal and if you pool it right makes for a very nice effect. Again I apply this straight from the container and put it on thick in one coat.
check out the chain and the armor
You can really see it on this model which has a lot of armor painted (all coated over with devlan mud)
Step 8: Shadow wash
Somehow I missed some pics for this next step it is my third wash.
Wash: Badab Black
Approximate time 15 minutes. For this step I applyed a heavy wash over all black cloth, beastial brown accessories, and all kommando khaki accessories. This will really bring out some depth to your model. It adds a shadow to most wraps and does a great job seperating layers. This effect can be achieved very quickly and easily.
IMPORTANT FACT*** Make sure to let the models dry after using washes, they have a tendency to take longer time to dry and handling them too soon could negatively effect your models. I usually let them dry over night after applying washes.
Step 9: Basing Teeth / Skulls
Next step we are going to start to pick out some details. The main focus here is the orks Teeth as teeth have a lot to do with ork culture I make sure to take my time here. I also use this on the bullet connectors for exposed bullets. Take your time on this step and use a very fine brush. I definately recommend using a magnifying lamp for this step and the next few as it will make your life a lot easier as you can see all my pics are taken from under it.
Approximate time 1 hour
Teeth
more teeth
Step 10: Bullets and earrings
Next we will focus on earrings and exposed bullets.
Dwarf Bronze was used to make these shine and show up on the model.
Approximate time 25 minutes. Take your time here. I usually only hit the most exposed parts to the bullets or earrings. This way it leaves black in the shadow areas.
This is the example with the bullet connectors painted (so you know what I mean from the step above)
Step 11: Highlighting Teeth / Skulls
My next step is a highlight step in which I use for teeth (and in some cases skulls) About part way up the tooth a little above half way I use Bleached Bone to highlight the teeth. For skulls I simply drybrush it on til it looks right.
Highlight: Bleached Bone
Approximate time: 10 minutes. There isn't much painting involved here. You are basically just adding the details to your graveyard earth you used. Make sure to use a fine brush and some kind of magnafying device.
Check out his tooth necklace and his teeth
another pic of teeth highlighted
Step 12: Beady little eyes
For one of my last detail steps I like to give my orks beady red eyes. This color also works really well on icons (usually on helmets, guns, or armor they have a gyff or icon of some kind) For the eyes I use a very fine pointer and only get the paint on the very very tip of it. This is done very carefullly.
Spotter: Blood Red
Eyes
Step 13: Goff checkered board (optional)
Now here your ork should look pretty complete, but for my orks I wanted them to have the Goff checkered board look. So all those areas I purposely left black I went back and started the checkered pattern.
I first started out drawing lines and filling them in like a checkered board with fortress grey. This doesn't quite look right at first and you will more than likely need to go back and square off the checks.
Checkered board: Fortress grey
Approximate time 15 minutes
Here you can see the checkered board before touching up with black, not to smooth but then again I don't have a very steady hand.
Step 14: Fine tuning the checkered board (optional)
After observing the picture above you can see how uneven the checkered board was for me. I used chaos black in the last step to go back and touch up the squares. Best way I found to do was to make sure to touch up the corners to make them look squared away. Touch up: Chaos Black
Approximate time 10 minutes.
Total time for completion was approximately 10 hours maybe a bit less. On the next post you will get to see a few detailed pictures of each model. I haven't decided on a basing color / theme for my army yet so as you can see my models just have the standard black bases (for now).
I hope you enjoyed my article and as always comments and questions are appreciated.
angel of death 007:
Finished Models
Here is several pics of the finished 10 models I started. All models were painted for and during the production of this article by me ;D
All that is left to do is the basing.
Model 1
back
Model 2
back
Model 3 (you can see the bullet belt on a shoota boy)
Model 4
Model 5
back
Model 6
Model 7
back
check out the fur on the hat...
Model 8
side
Model 9
back
Model 10
back /checkered board
Hope you enjoyed. Good luck in your future painting endeavors.
adamscurr:
Tactica: Warbuggies
One of the best advantages of Codex: Orks is the availability of cheap, but effective vehicles. What they lack in armor, they make up for in speed. The Warbuggy can fulfill a number of rolls, from infantry killing to popping tanks.
The Basic of Buggies:
Buggies are designed for two basic roles: anti-infantry and anti-tank. However, each is flexible enough to perform several soft battlefield roles as well: blocking assaults, creating cover saves, and contesting objectives.
Why Take One and When You Can Take Three:
Ork vehicles are cheap for a reason. A single buggy will quickly be destroyed, giving your opponent an easy kill point. Two buggies suffer the penalties of vehicle squadrons (immobilized = wrecked), while not having enough survivability or effectiveness to be worth the sacrifice. Buggies should be taken in groups of three to increase their life expectancy and their ability to complete their primary mission.
To Trakk or not to Trakk:
When fifth edition came out, Armor Plates and Grot Riggers became irrelevant for vehicle squadrons. However, trakks give you the ability to re-roll dangerous terrain test. This option should be considered in Cities of Death missions and boards with an abundance of terrain. With getting to the enemy as quickly as possible in mind, the Skorcha comes in handy with its trakk option!
Which Options Are Worth It and Which Are Not:
With the coming of fifth edition Warhammer 40K, Red Paint became the only viable option for buggy squadrons. The additional move it provides can sometimes can be useful, but is often just wasted points. Armor Plates and Grot Riggers are irrelevant because of the vehicle squadron rules.
Skorcha, Big Shoota, or Rokkit:
Arming your buggies will depend on what battlefield role you intend for the squadron. The Big Shoota and Skorcha options are designed for anti-infantry roles. The Rokkit excels at crippling and destroying vehicles.
The Big Shoota: Dakka From Afar:
Big Shoota buggies are the cheapest option. They excel at delivering heavy infantry killing power at range. Being twin-linked with a high rate of fire, you can be assured of hitting frequently. The strength is adequate to wound anything less than monstrous creatures, but the AP is less than spectacular. The range is excellent, and combined with the fast vehicle rule, really nothing on the board is safe from this buggy. It is recommended for lightly armored opponents such as Guardians, Guardsmen, and Gaunts, as well as targeting vehicles with weak rear armor.
The Skorcha: Burn Baby Burn:
The Skorcha gets "free" trakks for the points you pay, so you can go bouncing through terrain without fear of getting stuck. This allows you to get to those pesky mortar squads that seem to hide in heavy terrain. Since the Skorcha is a heavy flamer it will kill almost everything if touches, often ignoring their armor save and of course like all flamers ignoring their cover save.
While it may not have the range to kill from round one, it normally goes unnoticed as it speeds around the board, harassing enemy units, and killing off the odd heavy support team. It is a great weapon for killing off most everything Tyranid. Skeetergod argues, “If I know I am going against nids, I make sure that I take Skorchas. Of course, the Rokkit buggy is good at killing the monstrous creatures, but the Skorcha is good at killing off and thinning down those large broods of gaunts. It is also fantastic for killing Genestealers.”
Against marines Skorchas are good for scout hunting and getting sniper teams out of terrain since a flamer can fire up one level.
Against Imperial Guard, the Skorcha really shines. Nothing is safe from its burning promethium. With the speed you can get in close to the heavy weapon teams and cook them off the board.
Finally, the Skorcha excels at 'off the board escort' duties. When a unit has broken the Skorcha drives nearby, staying close enough so that the enemy unit cannot rally, spitting flames every turn until it is off the board. Being fast, it can keep up with the enemy unit no matter how far it runs.
Rokkit Buggies:
The primary function of Rokkit buggies is destroying vehicles and monstrous creatures. Being twin linked, they have a reasonable chance of hitting their target; being fast, they have an excellent chance of hitting side or even rear armor.
Rokkit buggies can be used in two ways. The first is to ride along with a mechanized Waaagh, firing off rokkits of opportunity at vehicles, popping transports so that the boyz can rip the troops inside apart in close combat. In a more conventional greenskin horde, the buggies can ride ahead and destroy transports, slowing those mechanized armies down.
Rokkits are best used on AV 12 or lower. Anything higher wastes firepower, although rokkits are able to damage any AV. The primary role of Rokkit buggies should be to force enemy infantry to disembark from their transports. Additionally, Dreadnoughts are easy prey, as the buggies can stay out of reach while delivering a continual barrage of rokkit fire. Additionally, rokkits should be employed against monstrous creatures, or very tough MEQ infantry, denying Feel No Pain and armor saves. The high strength and low AP are sufficient to wound most.
Finally, mass rokkit fire can make a mess of skimmers, particularly if you can target the rear armor.
Dirty Tricks: Expert Buggy Use:
Buggies can be used in a number of functions beyond their ability to kill the enemy. With their incredible speed, they can often fulfill a number of battlefield roles:
• Buggies can offer cover saves to the troops and vehicles behind them. While troops are easy to cover, players seeking to give cover to trucks should use the old truck model (the new one, though splendid, is too large).
Below, a group of Grey Hunters wants to fire on the boyz. The buggies give the boyz some cover, and they will come through only losing a couple:
• Orks are often outmatched by our enemies. Often, it is necessary to ensure that we charge our enemies, rather than be charged. Any buggy, regardless of its armament, can block an opponent's advance. Moving into position at cruising speed, it is a difficult target to hit in melée. As a squadron, buggies can stop the advance of the enemy, forcing them to run around, or fruitlessly swing away at them in an assault.
Below, the Grey Hunters, frustrated by the ineffectiveness of their Bolters, try to move into position to assault. The buggies prevent this, giving the Orks the choice to assault in the next round:
• Buggies can be used in some sneaky manoeuvres. They can easily split supporting units from each other, effectively preventing a second unit from supporting the first. Another favorite tactic is locking a Dreadnought in place by surrounding it with buggies. Even if it manages to destroy a buggy or two in the assault or shooting phase, it has missed its chance to move in the movement phase. Positioning your buggies correctly means that a Dreadnought has no choice but to fire at them.
Below, the Grey Hunters finally engage the Orks, but find themselves a bit outnumbered. The Thunderwolf Calvary moves to support them. However, the buggies intercede and force the Thunderwolf unit to assault them instead. Needing sixes to hit, they do little to no damage against the fast moving buggies:
Below, a second unit of Warbuggies moves to intercept a Dreadnought. With any luck, the rokkits will cause it to explode. However, the buggies have surrounded the walker, and it will not be going anywhere:
A Gallery of Buggies:
Adamscurr,
July 2011.
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