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Offline DJ-of-E

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Red Corsairs Obliterator
« on: July 4, 2008, 07:47:19 AM »
This is merely a side project to keep my concentration going on my main project.  Sometimes, doing different things will keep morale up, as my painting morale is as good as a guardsman at the moment.  Like the other thread, I'll keep updating as what do step by step.

July 1, Did green stuff to connect the body of the Obliterator.  For those who haven't own the model, it has a ridiculous gap in which you cannot fit with just glue alone.  I've also used a guardsmen bit helmet with sand for the base.  The tiles of the base are made by using my knife and make a V-shape cut to produce the lines.  Modeling sand has been added and glued with super glue, as I have bad results gluing sand with PVA glue.  Bullet holes are made with a pin vice for the hole and a knife to messily carve around the hole.



July 3, Finished doing the base.  Base coat the base in Chaos Black,  Then dry brush with a flat angled brush with Codex Grey.  Finalized dry brushing with Fortress Grey, used sparingly.  Since I don't have Catachan Green, I just use the combination of Knarloc Green, Chaos Black, and Goblin Green to product the same result.  However, highlighting with Knarloc Green produced excellent results for me.  Lastly, Combination of Blood Red, Gore Red, and Chaos Black as the base coat for my Obliterator model.




July 4, a thin mix of Blood Red, Mechrite Red, and water is used as an overlapping color over the base coat for the flesh to give it a redder tone.  Afterwords, drybrushing of bloodred and mechrite red to make it meaty.



Since I wanted a more skin tone sort of look rather than bloody skinned, I've used a combination that can be used very well for any basic skin flesh.  Get a badly fizzled brush and dry brush lightly of Dwarf Flesh wall over the organic parts.  Then use your regular brush, which is a regular brush for me, and drybrush dwarf flesh in skins near the surface.  Then a combination of Dwarf Flesh and Skull White to top off where the sun will most likely hit.



A mix of Mechrite Red and Red Gore as the base color for the armour.  You would want the armour to be initially dark before blending and highlighting upwards.  Mechrite Red and Blood Red is used to highlight upwards to brighten the armour.  I've also painted boltgun metal to silver areas just for the hell of it.



Watered down Blood Red is used to smooth out the red colors of the armour, blending out any form of brush streaks.  A combination of Blood Red and Blazing Orange is used to highlight the red armour in a more subtle way.  Dark Angels Green as the base color for the jewels/sensors.  I've also found out that Black Ink and Badab Black Wash makes an incredibly great combination I've been seeking for a wash, used it for any metal parts.  I've always thought the new washes were a "too thin" for my tastes.  Bestial brown as the base color to paint shinning gold on the skulls located at the knees area of the armour.  A mix of Codex Grey and Chaos Black is used to lighten the overall color tone of the black armour trimes.



Painted the jewels with Goblin Green and upwards to Scorpion Green.  I've make sure all of them point towards a single source of light.  Highlighted the armour overall with Codex Grey, but is thinned out and is used twice.  First layer of thin Codex Green to highlight the overall edges, a 2nd layer is only use to bring up even thinner edges of the highlight.  Fortress Grey is used to high areas where it would receive the most amount of light.  I've also painted the wires in their individual colors, such as red green & blue as soon in most electronics.  For the metals, boltgun metal as the base and chainmail as the highlight.



July 7th,  Just taking what I have applied to the body and use it onto the arms and this is the end result.


« Last Edit: February 24, 2009, 12:16:00 AM by DJ-of-E »

Offline -V-

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #1 on: July 4, 2008, 09:10:24 AM »
I shall watch this thread to, I enjoy seeing your work DJ

Offline DJ-of-E

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #2 on: July 6, 2008, 03:59:56 AM »
July 4, a thin mix of Blood Red, Mechrite Red, and water is used as an overlapping color over the base coat for the flesh to give it a redder tone.  Afterwords, drybrushing of bloodred and mechrite red to make it meaty.



Since I wanted a more skin tone sort of look rather than bloody skinned, I've used a combination that can be used very well for any basic skin flesh.  Get a badly fizzled brush and dry brush lightly of Dwarf Flesh wall over the organic parts.  Then use your regular brush, which is a regular brush for me, and drybrush dwarf flesh in skins near the surface.  Then a combination of Dwarf Flesh and Skull White to top off where the sun will most likely hit.



A mix of Mechrite Red and Red Gore as the base color for the armour.  You would want the armour to be initially dark before blending and highlighting upwards.  Mechrite Red and Blood Red is used to highlight upwards to brighten the armour.  I've also painted boltgun metal to silver areas just for the hell of it.



Watered down Blood Red is used to smooth out the red colors of the armour, blending out any form of brush streaks.  A combination of Blood Red and Blazing Orange is used to highlight the red armour in a more subtle way.  Dark Angels Green as the base color for the jewels/sensors.  I've also found out that Black Ink and Badab Black Wash makes an incredibly great combination I've been seeking for a wash, used it for any metal parts.  I've always thought the new washes were a "too thin" for my tastes.  Bestial brown as the base color to paint shinning gold on the skulls located at the knees area of the armour.  A mix of Codex Grey and Chaos Black is used to lighten the overall color tone of the black armour trimes.


Painted the jewels with Goblin Green and upwards to Scorpion Green.  I've make sure all of them point towards a single source of light.  Highlighted the armour overall with Codex Grey, but is thinned out and is used twice.  First layer of thin Codex Green to highlight the overall edges, a 2nd layer is only use to bring up even thinner edges of the highlight.  Fortress Grey is used to high areas where it would receive the most amount of light.  I've also painted the wires in their individual colors, such as red green & blue as soon in most electronics.  For the metals, boltgun metal as the base and chainmail as the highlight.

Offline Jehan-Reznor

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #3 on: July 6, 2008, 10:01:28 AM »
looks great like aways.
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http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=150109.0 Hello Kitty Space Marine Army

Offline -V-

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #4 on: July 6, 2008, 12:09:41 PM »
Youve definitely got red down.

whats your method for this? do you layer or blend or something else?

Offline DJ-of-E

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #5 on: July 8, 2008, 01:24:12 AM »
July 7th,  Just taking what I have applied to the body and use it onto the arms and this is the end result.


« Last Edit: July 8, 2008, 01:54:34 AM by DJ-of-E »

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #6 on: July 8, 2008, 05:48:10 AM »
Hmmm I think that you need to pay a little more attention to the weapon arms of the obliterator, theyre not done as smoothly as the rest of the fleshy parts of the model, there is too much of the base colour showing through in the recesses, it looks as though youve used one thick layer of paint as your highlight.  Which is a shame since the rest of the model is beautiful.

Offline Jehan-Reznor

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #7 on: July 8, 2008, 07:19:58 AM »
Hmmm I think that you need to pay a little more attention to the weapon arms of the obliterator, theyre not done as smoothly as the rest of the fleshy parts of the model, there is too much of the base colour showing through in the recesses, it looks as though youve used one thick layer of paint as your highlight.  Which is a shame since the rest of the model is beautiful.
i think that's the idea old blood from the transformations?
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my projects;
http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=169427.0 budhhist space marines
http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=163611.0 Doombringer my space marine chapter
http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=150109.0 Hello Kitty Space Marine Army

Offline moc065

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #8 on: July 8, 2008, 08:15:51 AM »
When I saw the name (DJ-of-E) I knew it would be good, and I was not disappointed.

Very well Done. A few more breakdown pics between paint stages would be awesome for tutorial reasons; but you covered it very well.

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Offline DJ-of-E

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #9 on: July 8, 2008, 03:38:49 PM »
Hmmm I think that you need to pay a little more attention to the weapon arms of the obliterator, theyre not done as smoothly as the rest of the fleshy parts of the model.

Yeah, sometimes it's harder to get a meatier look on the arms because it's not molded well like the flesh in the body.  What I've learned is that the arms are horrid for drybrushing and that I need to blend and layer next time for the arms.

I'll do a better job next time on my 2nd obliterator.  It's like people painting their troop choices.  The first batch tends to be not so stellar compared to the future painted batches.

Offline typhon

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2008, 10:17:44 AM »
oh please side track soon and do the next one

beautiful work

Offline Bonham63

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Re: Red Corsairs Obliterator
« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2008, 05:56:30 PM »
I recently purchase an Oblit and it's still in the package. Haven't had one before. Thanks for all the fantastic ideas for my model. I will try to do your ideas justice. Awesome job, BTW.
Bonham1963,
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